After spending time in the lower Alazani Valley as it slopes down towards the river, it’s exhilarating to navigate the tortuous ‘S’ bends up the mountain to Sighnaghi, one of Georgia’s prettiest and most distinctive towns. Sighnaghi commands spectacular views of the Caucasus range, weather permitting. (I went there a dozen times before I was treated to that full view: the mountains often hide demurely behind veils of cloud or fog.) Winter’s the best time to get the whole panorama, with snowy peaks as icing on the cake.