Wine

It’s mid June and the growing season is in full swing. We turn through some pine trees along the main road between Tbilisi and Sighnaghi onto a dirt track. The grass reaches the car windows. At the top of the lane is a small cabin with a larger structure beside it. We’re having lunch at Nikoloz ‘Niki’ Antadze’s and he’s doing the cooking.

Niki is one of the original gang of four natural winemakers that inspired so many others. His laid-back charm belies his determination and cultural approach to winemaking. He’s rescuing ancient vines, working organically and finding new ways to vinify native grapes. Niki studied in Germany, taught German, translated books and plays and worked as a ski guide before that. Since 2012 he’s concentrated on wine.