Chachkari

You reach the high village of Chachkari by taking the narrow road that passes below Vardzia, through the Vardzia car park and along the river, and then climbing up, around and behind it (on the right-hand side if you are facing Vardzia’s mountain). It’s a steep, rocky road that’s accessible by rugged vehicle or walkable in hiking boots (but be careful: I fell there in smoother walking shoes).

The small village stretches towards the interior of the mountain with pale tufa rock formations on either side that protect and hide it. It’s now only inhabited by the old folk of three families but once was home to three generations of fourteen families. Modest animal pens are delineated by pole and wire fences and crumbling stone walls; fruit trees of former orchards are unkempt. In June I spotted self-seeded marijuana amidst the wildflowers, and encountered noisy dogs, a few chickens and a couple of old men tending their vegetables. It may be semi-abandoned now, but Chachkari’s historical importance shouldn’t be underestimated.