Becho Valley

I’ve stayed in the Becho Valley on each of my trips to Svaneti. About 20 minutes by car from Mestia, this valley leads up towards Mount Ushba and its glacier, at 4,700 metres (15,419 feet), and in clear weather is dominated by Ushba’s curvilinear peak. The road follows the narrow but fast-flowing Dolra River with clusters of humble farms and log cabins along its way, some grouped into small villages.

Pigs and other animals roam freely in the paths between the houses, each with a barn and woodpile attached. In some, heaps of dung outside small windows in the barns point to animals being stabled indoors. Most animals, however, seem to be free during the day and brought back into the safety of pens at night, sometimes accompanied by small children or village youths with their dogs. There are nocturnal predators – like wolves and bears – in these areas. In spring and summer, the open meadows are filled with wild-flowers and with lazy grazing cows. There are several family guest houses and small hotels in this valley, some of which offer wonderful food.