Ambrolauri

Appears in
Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus
Tasting Georgia

By Carla Capalbo

Published 2017

  • About
Ambrolauri is the capital of the region, situated on the Rioni River at 550 metres (1,800 feet) above sea level. It’s a quiet provincial town – much of it fairly modern – that’s centrally placed if you’re visiting the area, with little to attract or cater to tourists. I stayed in one of its few hotels, the Metekhara Hotel, Gamsakhurdia Street, 2; tel: +995 599181464.

Lunch at Izolda Dvali’s guest house

Nikortsminda

If you are driving to Racha from Imereti, don’t miss Nikortsminda; it’s just off the main road, a few kilometres after you pass the large Shaori Reservoir. This is one of the most beautiful churches in Georgia. Dedicated to St Nicholas the Miracle-worker, the small church was built between 1010 and 1014 by King Bagrat III. It’s a gem, inside and out: the pale external walls are carved with intricate natural designs, many of them based on the vine and other plants. The tower, with its conical roof over a drum above the crossing, is typical of the Georgian cross-dome style. Inside, the church was decorated in fresco, painted it seems by the 16th-century masters who also worked on Gelati. Despite being damaged in the devastating earthquake, Nikortsminda was restored and is today one of the jewels in Georgia’s crown.