As you drive up and around the large Aragvi Reservoir that was created in 1985 when the Soviet-era Zhinvali Dam was built to supply hydro-electric power, you can’t miss the imposing fortress and church complex at Ananuri. It once stood in a commanding position along the road above the village, which was relocated before the dam was built. (Original plans for the dam would have flooded the fortress too but luckily a public outcry blocked them.)
The crenellated fortress walls enclose what was the stronghold of the chivalrous but violent Dukes of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty that ruled the area from the 13 th century. Many battles were fought here. The larger, brick church was built in the 17th century. The carvings on its exterior walls show Persian influence; they feature a large cross flanked by grape vines (being eaten by deer), as well as angels, dragons and lions. A Khevsuretian square-section defensive tower also still stands within the fortress walls.