Preparation

When choosing a whole fresh bird, look for one with a compact and rounded shape, plump breasts, dry and unmarked skin and pliable legs. Chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl, ducks and geese should smell fresh, which means very little smell at all; if they have been stored too long an off-putting smell is easily distinguishable, even through plastic. Always remove tight plastic wrapping when you get home and leave the bird in the refrigerator on a large plate for no more than three days, covered only loosely with greaseproof paper so plenty of air can circulate around it. If the bird comes with its giblets be sure to save them for the stockpot; they can be frozen until you are ready to use them.