Any smoked fish, such as kippers, bloaters, mackerel, trout and salmon, makes delicious pâtés for serving with toast, in sandwiches, or with salad. Kippers and bloaters need to be grilled or poached first, then cooled and flaked. Mackerel, trout and salmon do not need further cooking. Flake the fish and mash it well with its own weight in butter, a little lemon juice and pepper. Press into small pots and chill before serving. For variety, try mashing the fish with a little thick cream, or with full-fat soft cheese. A pinch of Cayenne pepper or Tabasco sauce brings out the flavour of the fish.