The essence of Cantonese cooking is that everything is fresh. Vegetables should be just picked or out of the ground, fruit right off the trees, meats only hours from being on the hoof, fish and shrimp still swimming when bought. To the Cantonese, freshness is everything; so that when spices and seasonings are added judiciously they underscore the prepared food rather than overpower it. These dim sum recipes illustrate that principle. Each of them is a happy combination of fresh ingredients and complementary seasonings.