Fish

My favourite fish recipe begins like this: Take a boat, a fishing rod, a frying pan and a jar of mustard ... Many people avoid cooking fish because they think it will be difficult, but fish recipes can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make them. The essential thing is that your fish should be absolutely fresh. During my childhood I spent my holidays near my uncle Paul, who was a fisherman, and there was always a plentiful supply of freshly caught local fish. This is the ideal situation, but failing that, it’s a good idea to befriend an approachable fishmonger who can advise you and who will prepare your fish for you on the spot (ready-filleted fish loses its taste rapidly). All along the French coast you can find terrific fish markets, and in many harbours you can buy fresh-caught shellfish, crabs and lobsters from the fishermen themselves. It is wonderful holiday food, because most fish and shellfish are very quick and simple to prepare and to cook, even on a portable stove or barbecue.