Poultry has always been an important part of the French kitchen, which is hardly surprising in a country with such a strong farming and rural tradition. At one time, every country family kept hens, ducks or geese, and these birds still tend to be associated with peasant dishes. Wild birds, too, have their place, especially in the more southern, mountainous regions of
France, but many of these birds are difficult to find in England, and we have adapted some
dishes accordingly. Choose your poultry well. It is worth finding a good organic butcher or farmer who can advise and supply you.