Cabbages for Kings

With so many light and flavorful ways to cook cabbage, and with dozens of varieties to choose from—pale green heads, crispy reds, snappy Savoys, and jewels from the Orient—it’s sad to think that there are still cooks who see it as an odoriferous, unpleasant vegetable that should be avoided. Cabbage needn’t be boiled to an overcooked pulp. Simply braised, steamed, and stir-fried—or served shredded and raw-it is just delicious.