We love eggplant. Once underappreciated in America, this beautiful, versatile vegetable is finally coming into its own, helped along by our growing appreciation of the many cuisines in which eggplant is essential. As children, we thought the popular Italian eggplant Parmesan was about the only way to prepare it, but thanks to Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian influences, among others, we now serve eggplant puréed, grilled, sautéed, and as part of one of our favorite vegetable combinations, ratatouille.