The Pig Stands Alone

If you want a subject, look to pork!,” writes Charles Dickens in Great Expectations. Although we no longer use “everything but the squeal,” pork remains a universal favorite in America, offering a variety of cuts suitable for many preparations. Fresh pork, whether eaten as sautéed chops, a roasted loin, baked ribs, or fresh sausage, is mild-flavored and divinely succulent; it takes well to the flavors of sage, rosemary, thyme, ginger, juniper, and fresh and dried fruits. Smoked and cured, pork is a whole different eating experience. Lusciously pink, sweet, and salty, glazed with a hon-eyed mixture of mustard, cloves, apple juice, and bourbon, or studded with brandy-plumped dried fruits, ham is an indulgence and a feast for a king.