We are crazy for custards, passionate about puddings, and fascinated by flans. Bread pudding comforts and crème brülée beguiles. It’s amazing but true that a basic formula of milk, eggs, and sugar is transformed into so many creamy sweets from every corner of the world. Each has just a little different formula, its own cooking method, and often one or two subtle added ingredients that make it extraordinary. Custard is one of the most elusive and magical of the kitchen arts, but when the result is a great one, everybody knows it.