Game

Game was once plentiful in America, and every rural family hunted as a matter of course. Now wild herds are much reduced and hunting is a sport with seasons. We greatly respect wild game for its unique flavor and leanness, but today, with both wild and farm-raised game available, game no longer is limited to cooks with a hunter in the family or to a season. We find ourselves turning more often to our butcher to supply our game throughout the year. A rabbit in every pot and venison in every freezer seems to us to be a very good thing. The taste will be different without a truly wild edge, but milder game attracts more fans and also frees the inexperienced cook from some of the pitfalls of game cookery. The meat you buy from the butcher won’t be tough, old, and impossibly stringy the way meat from wild game might be. So, in a very different way from our forebears, we give thanks for game and enjoy its lean meat and rich flavors. The following recipes will help you celebrate the adventure.