These lusty members of the lily family were frowned upon by polite society for centuries. Their taste and smell have been considered common, when in fact, their availability made them the cornerstones of country cooking the world over. Finally, “peasant cooking” from around the world has become the most popular way to cook, and a pantry without the onion and its cousins isn’t considered well stocked. Now these aromatic vegetables are seen by wise cooks for what they are—flavor makers in the best sense of the word, adding richness and zest to every dish they meet.