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We’ve come a long way since we all complained about winter’s pale pink hothouse tomatoes with their cottony textures. Now year-round romas, imported cherry tomatoes on the stem, organics, hydroponics, and new hothouse techniques have made tomatoes a dream come true, most of the time. Of course, refrigeration is anathema to all tomatoes. It simply kills any taste at all. And so, regardless of the season or the source, we always seem to have some ripening on the kitchen windowsill.

But of course our favorites are seasonal, locally grown heirloom tomatoes, those pure strains of tomatoes that have never been compromised. Some may have dazzling good looks, some a blemished exterior that hides brilliantly breathtaking tomato flavor—a perfect example of looks possibly being deceiving. But these are the true glories of the season, worth searching for, even better worth saving seeds and growing in your own garden.