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Japanese Dashi: The Textbook Example of Umami Synergy

Appears in
Umami: Unlocking the Secrets of the Fifth Taste

By Ole Mouritsen and Klavs Styrbæk

Published 2014

  • About

Dashi is mentioned for the first time in Japanese writings from the eighth century in connection with the fish sauce katsuo-irori, an extract of dried bonito (katsuo) boiled in water. Dashi can be loosely translated as ‘cooked extract.’ It is a water extract made up of two ingredients, konbu and katsuobushi, which contribute glutamate and ribonucleotides, respectively. Dashi is the textbook example of umami synergy.

The preparation of dashi starts by placing konbu in cold water. Most recipes stress that the water is then to be warmed up to just under the boiling point, at which time the seaweed is promptly removed. Under no circumstances is the water to boil, because that will result in a more bitter extract. There are, however, indications that having more control over the extraction process will yield a better outcome. Experiments have shown that a temperature of 60–65°C is optimal and that the best results are achieved by allowing the seaweed to steep at this temperature for an hour in a vacuum-sealed bag in a water bath. Some chefs have asserted that higher temperatures break down glutamate, but this is not correct, given that glutamic acid is stable up to at least 150°C.

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