Shōjin Ryōri: An Old Tradition with a Modern Presence

The increase over time in the diversity of Japanese dishes made with the concentrated foodstuffs discussed in this and preceding chapters was undoubtedly related to major religious developments. Buddhism became the official state religion of Japan in the sixth century, and this resulted in stringent prohibitions against the consumption of meat and fresh fish, which lasted for hundreds of years. This gave rise to a need to find replacements that could introduce umami to make food more palatable. As a result, dried and fermented fish, seaweeds, vegetables, soybeans, and fungi were placed in the spotlight. Later on, when Zen Buddhism grew influential and the consumption of all fish was banned, it was no longer permitted to make dashi with katsuobushi. This was how the distinctive, strictly vegetarian Japanese version of temple cuisine, shōjin ryōri, began to take shape. In a sense, one can view the core of this cuisine as a search for deliciousness and umami without using any animal products. The only slightly less ascetic branches of modern vegan and vegetarian movements espouse these same goals.