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Introduction

Over the past ten years the Japanese word “umami” has come to be known widely around the world. I have worked for many years as a Japanese chef with an eye on international cuisine, but I have never seen anything like the speed and extent of this term’s spread.

A key factor behind this is the global rise of interest in healthy eating. At Kikunoi, my restaurant in Kyoto, we serve kaiseki, an elaborate meal of twelve to fourteen courses, but the entire meal, including dessert, comes to only about 1300 kilocalories. Chefs from other cuisines find this remarkable, but by going light on butter and oil and making good use of umami, we are able to produce a satisfying meal even with a low calorie count.

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