A New Approach to Eating

Good food has always been central to my life, and that love led me to a career as food editor at one of the top epicurean magazines in the country. For more than twenty years, I directed the food content for Bon Appétit magazine, delivering delicious recipes to the over seven million readers. It was part of my job to taste all of the recipes we printed. But recently, I had to make a big change in the way I approached food.

I had celiac disease as a baby, and the doctors informed my mother that if I ate no gluten for my first three years, I would be cured. My mom told me this story from the time I was old enough to understand, and I trusted the information, despite digestive problems my entire life. Not long ago, my symptoms became a lot worse, with agonizing bloating almost every time I ate, frequent gastrointestinal distress, and aching joints. The two indicators that really got my attention were fatigue and weight loss, despite eating enormous quantities of dark chocolate to boost my energy (I’m not complaining about that part). After considerable investigation, it became clear that the gluten intolerance had resurfaced and my system was in chaos. I knew immediately that in order to be happy, I had to eat as well as I always had—fresh, simple, farmers’ market–inspired food—but it now had to be free of wheat, rye, barley, and other foods that contain the protein called gluten. Because I am interested in everything about food and cooking, this challenge turned into an enthralling and satisfying project. I attended celiac conferences, read books, and, best of all, experimented in the kitchen.