The sight of the first Italian lemons, complete with their leaves, prompts me to make this dish, illustrated on the previous page, every year. Of all the roast, baked, grilled or marinated vegetable dishes in this book, this is my favourite. An atypical selection of vegetables is used – no tomato, aubergine, courgette, bell peppers or basil. Those used are of North European cooking – potatoes, turnips, peas etc. – but they are seasoned with the flavours of the Mediterranean – olive oil, chillies, lemon juice and garlic. In short a mongrel of a dish. It can be served as an antipasto or as a contorno (accompaniment). This is the dish in which to use all those infantile vegetables the supermarkets so proudly stock.