The purpose of the berry puree is to glaze the skin for crispness and give it color, without having to overcook the bird. With the berry marinade, the skin crisps up right away, and the acid in the berries counteracts and balances the richness of the squab and gives a richness of color variation over the surface of the bird. Instead of raspberries, blackberries or blueberries can be used. The recipe was inspired by the seventeenth-century cookbook