I first saw lamb kidneys still entirely enveloped in their own fat in Solliès-Toucas, in the south of France, in a butcher shop run by the Mutton sisters. I asked
Trim the fat evenly on the kidneys so that it is
Peel the potatoes and either grate them in a mill or julienne them in a food processor. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water, wring them dry in a towel, and form them into
Season the kidneys and cook them in a heavy frying pan or casserole over medium heat for 15 minutes, turning them often to brown the fat slightly. Turn the heat down to very low and continue to cook, turning often, until the kidneys are still just barely pink inside, about 30 minutes. You will have to cut into one to test for doneness. Let the kidneys rest while you cook the potatoes.
© 1986 Jeremiah Tower. All rights reserved.