Most everyone these days cooks sweetbreads for a finished dish from the raw state, a practice that shortchanges the sweetbreads and gives them a bad reputation. But if you braise them first, on a flavorful bed of aromatics like mirepoix and fresh herbs, the sweetbreads take on a more complex flavor as well as a smooth and unctuous texture. It is best to cook the sweetbreads the day before serving them. I developed this dish for the Santa Fe Bar & Grill. If you do not want to cook French fries, cooked new potatoes that have been rolled in olive oil and chili powder and then grilled would do well.
Cook the sweetbreads. When they are cool, wipe them dry and put them in a bowl. Add the olive oil and chopped tarragon, toss together, and let marinate for 1 hour.
Peel the potatoes and cut them by hand or with a machine into
Start a charcoal grill or heat the broiler. Heat the
Season the sweetbreads and grill over a medium fire until the sweetbreads are heated through and golden brown on the outside, about 8 minutes on each side. When you put the sweetbreads on the grill, drain the potatoes and spin them dry. When they are thoroughly dry, fry them in a basket in the hot oil until crisp, about 5 minutes.
Serve the sweetbreads on a bed of the salsa surrounded with fries. Pour the chili butter sauce on the sweetbreads.
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