Grilled Sweetbreads with Chili Butter

Most everyone these days cooks sweetbreads for a finished dish from the raw state, a practice that shortchanges the sweetbreads and gives them a bad reputation. But if you braise them first, on a flavorful bed of aromatics like mirepoix and fresh herbs, the sweetbreads take on a more complex flavor as well as a smooth and unctuous texture. It is best to cook the sweetbreads the day before serving them. I developed this dish for the Santa Fe Bar & Grill. If you do not want to cook French