I think that the columnist Liz Smith’s farewell to Rock Hudson—“So long, big boy, have a good rest”—is what I would like on my tombstone, but it will probably be: “He invented black bean cake.” Like red cabbage salad, it is one of those dishes that the public will not let me take off the menu. It is simple, beautiful, easy, and fast. But it has never been imitated with any success, despite many tries. Here is the recipe.</