The California Roll was one of the first recipes to surface and gain general acceptance in a new era of Japanese cuisine abroad. It represents one of the clearest, and most delicious, examples of the current trend to blend American foodstuffs with Japanese technique. This American sushi has recently been transplanted to Japan’s urban centers of gastronomy, where it has been greeted with pleasure.

There are many versions of this classic-in-the-making, and I offer my personal f