These are not hard biscotti, but more cakelike. At her restaurant L’Etoile, Odessa Piper serves them with the Banon-style cheeses from Capriole farm at the corner of Indiana and Kentucky, where she thinks some of the greatest American cheeses come from, Banon-style cheeses are made from the first milk of the spring, and the wrapping leaves are chestnut, though dipped in Kentucky bourbon, not the marc that is used in France.