I’ve seen some wild variations on the taco theme (foie gras tacos, raw food tacos, s’mores taco cookies, and deep-fried tacos as big as plates, for example), so I’m open-minded about what makes a taco a taco, as long as all works in my mouth. Here, instead of the expected tortilla, the sweet-spicy shrimp mixture is rolled up in crisp lettuce leaves with plenty of onion and cilantro. This is a great recipe to make for a group or set out for a party, with the lettuce and garnishes alongside. The balance of heat and sweet in the sauce contrasts delightfully with the cool, crisp lettuce wrappers. The same sauce is good on grilled pork or chicken.