’Trickster’s Potsticker’ (Burnt Milk and Mastic Pudding)

Yalanci Kazandıbı

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Preparation info

  • Difficulty

    Medium

  • Serves

    8

Appears in

Anatolia

By David Dale and Somer Sivrioglu

Published 2015

  • About

In the Turkish title, the word kazandibi means ‘bottom of the pan’, which I’ve loosely translated as ‘potsticker’. Yalancı (pronounced ‘yalanjuh’) means a liar or trickster—the kind of person who’d promise a pudding that is usually made with chicken breast, but who’d then leave out the chicken breast. In other words, me and most of the pudding shops in modern Istanbul.

The very last recipe in this book is a variant of that classic chicken breast pudding (called Tavuk göğsü). In Turkey, it was customary to scrape up the bits left at the bottom of the pan after the chicken breast pudding had been served, fold them over neatly, caramelise the outside, and present them as a new dessert called ‘bottom of the pan’. Nowadays, cooks usually leave out the chicken breast. I’ve followed the modern style because I wanted a dish suitable for vegetarians—or maybe just because I’m a trickster.

Ingredients

  • 1 piece mastic crystal (less than 1 g/1/25 oz)
  • 150 g ( oz) sugar
  • 1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) milk
  • 2 tablespoons rice flour
  • 70 g ( oz) arrowroot powder
  • 2 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 100 g ( oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar
  • 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Method

Crush the mastic crystal into a powder, using a mortar and pestle or the handle of a knife, and then mix with the sugar. Heat the milk and mastic mixture in a saucepan over medium heat. Meanwhile, add the rice flour and arrowroot to 250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) of water and stir to combine. Pour the arrowroot mixture into the milk and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, whisking constantly, for 5 minutes.

Brush a 30 × 40 × 4 cm (12 × 16 × 1½ in) baking tray with the melted butter. Sprinkle the icing sugar evenly over the tray. Place the tray over medium heat on the cook top and gently shake so that the sugar caramelises evenly but does not burn. Pour the milk mixture over the caramelised sugar. Remove the tray from the heat and tap it on a solid surface to make the pudding settle evenly. Put the pudding back over the heat and gently shake so that the mixture cooks evenly. Once all corners of the pudding have started to brown and the pudding starts to bubble, take the tray off the heat and sit it in a larger tray of iced water. Leave to cool to room temperature and then place the pudding tray in the fridge for 1 hour to chill.

Remove the pudding from the fridge and cut it into six slices (once lengthways and twice across). Fold each strip of pudding over to expose the burnt underside. Push a plastic spatula under one end and roll about a third of the strip over the top. Repeat with the remaining strips.

Dust each snail with cinnamon and serve at room temperature.