I’ve translated the word ezme, which literally means ‘crushed’, as ‘salsa’ because it’s chunkier than a sauce but runnier than a dip, and because it contains the New World ingredients chillies and tomatoes. The secret to making a great ezme is never to use a food processor. Instead, you should chop it finely just before you take it to the table.

Ezmes are served in kebap houses to lubricate the palate before the meat arrives. The waiter just plonks a few small plates on the table when you sit down, and you spoon them up while you discuss what kind of kebap you might order. The spiciest ezmes are made in Gaziantep.