When I came to Sydney I found duck was a popular meat with Australians, and I started serving this dish in winter. It is a modern variation of a Black Sea dish, where silverbeet is usually wrapped around lamb mince and rice. There they’d never use duck, which is a meat cooked at home by the wives of hunters, or freekeh, which is from the southeast. My justification for the change is that spit-roasted duck was served in Istanbul at the circumcision ceremony for the son of Sultan Mehmet II, in 1457. That’s the rule: when challenged, quote the Ottomans.