I learnt to make these with my brother and sister-in-law, Luca and Luisa. They really are amazing proper Italian cooks, who put this together effortlessly, as though they were just ironing a shirt. Sometimes they use fresh egg pasta squares instead of the crepes, boiling them first to soften and laying them out on clean kitchen towels to dry. Although this might seem a bit fiddly, it’s worth it in the end because you can just take this one lovely dish to the table. If you want to break up the work load a bit, fry the crepes and make the tomato sauce and spinach mix in advance, keeping them covered until you are ready to use them. Then, at the last moment, you can heat up your oven, make the béchamel, fill and roll the crepes, dot the béchamel and tomatoes over the top, and bake. Your oven dish needs to be about 20 × 30 cm (8 × 12 inches) so that you can fit 12 rolled crepes in two rows. If the rolled crepes won’t quite fit your dish, you can trim off their ends — it is a little fiddly, but they do look very smart that way.