Wontons in a Smoky Broth

My delightful friend Rachel is luckily rather little as she lives in the tiniest of apartments, in which she runs Paris’s smallest underground restaurant: La Petite Cuisine à Paris. From her family visits to Malaysia she remembers an old Chinese man riding his bike, which he had turned into a mobile kitchen, ringing his bell and shouting, ‘Wonton man is here!’ People would come out of their houses with empty bow