I’ve based the flavourings in this dipping sauce on yuzo kosho, the tongue-tingling Japanese citrus paste made from pounding green chillies with salt and yuzu skin. Brushed on grilled meats or spooned into ramen or hot pots, its spicy floral taste is an epiphany. You can buy jars from Asian stores, but I’ve riffed a homemade version using lime zest and jalapeño, swirled here into a creamy buttermilk base.
Rub both sides of the crisps with the oil and place on one very large baking tray or two smaller ones.
Remove the crisps from the oven, sprinkle with sea salt and leave to cool on the tray. If not eating immediately, place in a tin or sealed container and line the base with baking paper so it absorbs any moisture to keep them crisp.
To make the creamy chilli sauce, in a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic, salt, green chilli, yuzu or lime juice and lime zest until they form a paste. Scrape into a small serving bowl and add the mayonnaise and buttermilk. Stir to combine.
Serve the creamy chilli sauce with the potato crisps.
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