Preserved Duck or Goose

Perhaps best known as part of the French cassoulet, preserved duck or goose is salty, rich, and intensely flavored. Even a small piece, with a little of the preserving fat, will make an inspiring difference in a bean soup or a vegetable stew. Or you can warm sections of your bird gently in their fat in a skillet and serve them with hot mashed potatoes.

When the preserved bird is all gone, don’t discard the remaining fat—it keeps almost indefinitely and can be used to make mor