To me, the single best gauge of a bakery’s quality is its lemon tart. It’s not a difficult tart to make, but there’s a challenge in balancing the sourness of the lemon, the sweet edge of the sugar, and the creaminess of the butter. This recipe produces a delicate, even flavor, and here are four different ways to present it: in the standard tart pastry; in the chocolate crust, where the flavors become more complex; in mini-tart shells; and as part of the most dramatic