Roast saddle of hare

In season between late August and March, hares are best in December when they still have much of their ‘stubble-flesh’ and are fit and fat. The saddle is the part of the hare that lies between the ribs and the hind-legs; it is in fact the loin, and is surprisingly meaty. The rest of the animal can be ‘jugged’ - made into a delicious rich dark stew.