four
Medium
By Denis Cotter
Published 1999
A couple of years ago, I went to San Francisco to check out the cutting edge of modern cooking in one of the most idyllic vegetable-producing areas of the world. We had a sublime meal of simple perfection at Chez Panisse, one other nice dinner and an awful lot of overpriced fusion codology. Easily the most inspiring people were the growers; the cooks were too busy growing ponytails. On the last day, while prowling in
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