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By Denis Cotter
Published 1999
This dish is about the buckwheat noodles even more than any of the other interesting ingredients. I love buckwheat, especially for winter pilaffs with mushrooms, dill, fennel, yoghurt and the like, but it’s very hard to find an audience for that kind of thing in a restaurant, while everyone loves noodles. Don’t buy the 100 per cent buckwheat variety - they are impossible to cook - Japanese 40 per cent are best. If you can’t read the instructions, cook them like spaghetti in lots of boiling