More than fifty years ago, when my friend Stephen Kahan was growing up in Virginia, he loved the crunchy fried chicken that his family’s housekeeper made. She removed the skin, cut the chicken into small pieces, and soaked it overnight in buttermilk before coating it with seasoned flour followed by crushed cornflakes and grated cheese. The pieces were browned on top of the stove in a little oil and finished in the oven. I added Mom’s Seas
