Red-Cooked Brains

Flavor: Reddish-Brown: Red-cooked

Brains seldom appear on Chinese menus or in Chinese cookbooks in America; they have been sacrificed to American eating habits. This is a loss, because Szechwanese-style brains are delicious. They were a favorite of Mrs. Chiang’s family, although they were such a luxury they were reserved for special occasions. On Taiwan, where brains were easily available, she often made them for us. Like bean curd, their soft, custard-like texture