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By Christopher Tan and Amy Van
Published 2018
In colonial Singapore, many Hainanese cooks worked as chefs in hotels, clubs or the private homes of Western officials. The Anglicised restaurant and hawker dishes we now call “Western food” largely evolved from these roots. The original version of this dish was likely seasoned with very British condiments such as HP sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Versions that add tomato ketchup to the sauce mix are more common nowadays.