By Richard Sax
After tasting my way through just about every tarte au citron in Paris, I came back again and again to the simple version baked at Nézard, a tiny unknown pâtisserie on the Left Bank near Montparnasse. Nowhere else did the lemon burst with such sharp citrus zing in each mouthful. No other tart cut so cleanly, each slice standing neat and trim on the plate, its unadorned surface of baked lemon curd glazed with gold.
There’s still no dessert more refreshing after dinner, whether