By Elisabeth Luard
The goose remains an obdurately seasonal bird, breeding in spring and ready for table no earlier than the first month of autumn. At Michaelmas (29 September) the bird is still a gosling; by Christmas it’s a goose.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas mark 33.
Wipe over the bird and singe off any stray hairs or feather stumps. Pull out the golden fat in the cavity and rub it over the breast (save the rest for roasting potatoes).
Season the bird inside and out, stuff the cavity with