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6
Medium
By Jane Grigson
Published 1991
The name means ‘hollow bones’ – in other words, marrow bones of veal cut across the shin, in 5 cm (2-inch) slices. The marrow is a bonus and in Italy they will give you long marrow scoops to get it out: they are called esami di esattore – ‘tax collector’s examinations’.
Turn the veal in the flour and brown in the butter in a sauté pan or deep, heavy-based frying pan. Remove them and put in the carrot, onion and celery. Let them soften rather than brown. Pour off any surplus butter. Add the wine and bubble vigorously, while you stir in any bits stuck to the pan. Put back the veal, which must remain always in a single layer. Tip in the tomatoes and the concentra