Coconut Cowpeas with Winter Melon

When she was describing it to me, my sister-in-law Geeta said emphatically that olan, a special-occasion curry among the Hindu Brahmins of Kerala, is very simple to make and “should not be cluttered” with aggressive spices—the purity of the coconut milk should shine through. (if you want to use fresh coconut milk.) Ladle this curry onto cooked red rice for a nutty combination. You will be amazed at the potency of the small amount of