Certain curries are lodged in my memory bank. Twenty-five years ago, while on a sojourn visiting southern Indian temples, we stopped in Trivandrum, a city in Kerala, where we dined at the home of a family friend. The curry was a rich stew of unripe mangoes peppered with green chiles, ladled over steaming-hot rice noodles. Flash forward to my American home kitchen a quarter of a century later, where the memory of those flavors rushed back. This time the curry is served over