Garlic-Flavored Pigeon Pea Broth with “Drumsticks” and Kokum

Classic to the Bohri Muslim community of northwestern India, this curry infuses a nutty-sweet pigeon pea sauce with slightly tart kokum and woodsy “drumstick.” Ranee Munaim’s mother, Sakina, shared this recipe with me, and as I cooked it, I couldn’t help but notice the similarity to the tamarind-based rasams of my southern upbringing. However, one spoonful of this curry and the resemblance ended. The flavors could not be any farther apart.